Farm business3 min read
How to buy a good dairy cow: 10 checks before you pay
A cow is the biggest purchase on a small dairy farm. Ten practical checks (age, udder, real milk yield, health and history) so you don't pay for someone else's problem.
Buying a cow at the market is often rushed: the seller is in a hurry, there are other buyers, and the cow's udder looks full. Many farmers later discover low milk, an infected quarter or a cow that won't get pregnant. Take your time, and if possible bring an experienced farmer or a vet with you.
1. Buy from a known source
A cow from a known farm with records is safer than one from a trader who bought her last week. Ask why the cow is being sold. "Too many cows" is a better answer than no answer.
2. Check the age by the teeth
Cattle have no upper front teeth; look at the lower front teeth (incisors). Calves have small milk teeth; the broad permanent teeth come in pairs:
| Permanent front teeth | Approximate age |
|---|---|
| 2 | About 2 years |
| 4 | About 2.5–3 years |
| 6 | About 3–3.5 years |
| 8 | About 4 years or more |
Worn, spaced or missing teeth suggest an old cow. A cow in her first to third lactation is usually the best buy.
3. Watch her being milked, twice
The most common trick is to leave a cow unmilked before the sale so the udder looks huge. If you can, watch her milked in the evening and again the next morning and measure the milk. That is her real daily yield.
4. Examine the udder
- Four quarters of similar size, firmly attached, not hanging very low
- Soft and pliable after milking (a hard, lumpy udder after milking suggests old mastitis)
- Four teats of normal size, evenly placed, without injuries; check that milk flows from each teat
- Check the first milk from each teat in a strip cup and, if possible, do a CMT test for hidden mastitis
5. Check general health
- Bright eyes, moist nose, alert and curious
- Normal breathing at rest, no cough or nasal discharge
- Shiny coat; no lumps, wounds or ringworm patches
- Normal dung, not watery
- Takes the temperature if you can: normal is roughly 38–39 °C
6. Watch her walk
Ask the seller to walk her. Limping, swollen joints or overgrown hooves cost money and lower milk.
7. Body condition
She should be neither thin with sharp hip bones nor very fat. A very thin cow may be sick or wormy; a very fat dry cow is at risk at calving.
8. Breeding status
- When did she last calve? When is she due?
- Has she been inseminated, and how many times? A cow that needed many services may have a fertility problem.
- If she is said to be pregnant, ask for a pregnancy check by a vet before paying a pregnant-cow price.
9. Vaccination and treatment records
Ask for dates of FMD, HS, BQ, anthrax and LSD vaccines, deworming and any treatments. No records means you should vaccinate and deworm her after purchase.
10. Temperament
Milk her yourself or watch closely. A cow that kicks, won't let down milk or panics in the shed makes every day harder.
After you buy
- Quarantine her away from your herd for 2–3 weeks.
- Deworm, then vaccinate as your vet advises.
- Introduce new feed slowly.
- Record everything from day one.
Make the cow part of your records
In FarmFlows, add the new cow under Cattle with her purchase date and price, record the payment as an expense under Finance, note the seller's old tag in the notes, and start recording her milk on day one. After a month you'll know exactly whether she was worth the price.
Quick checklist
- Known source; ask why she is sold
- Age by teeth; first to third lactation is ideal
- Watch two milkings and measure
- Soft udder after milking, four working teats, CMT
- Healthy, walks well, moderate body condition
- Breeding and vaccination history; vet pregnancy check
- Quarantine 2–3 weeks after purchase